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It's squash season and my favourite time of the year, not least for all the spiced dishes and other comfort food of fall. Today's Rajasthani stir-fry is a regular in my kitchen, and the blend of ginger, chili and palm sugar lends it a wonderful flavor harmony. The biryani, on the other hand, is packed with whole spices, long-grain rice and ghee, which provide so much more flavour to the layers of grains and vegetables.

Mushroom and Squash Biryani

National curry week starts on early October, so what better way to celebrate than with a rich, warming, all-in-one-pot biryani? For convenience, make the vegetable curry component in advance and layer all components on the day you want to serve.

Preparation 20 min
Cook 2 hr
Serves 4

For the squash and mushroom gravy
4 tbsp ghee, or use butter
1 tsp cumin seeds
2 dried bay leaves
4 cloves
450g white onions, peeled and thinly sliced
3 green bird's eye chillies, lengthwise slit
5cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut into matchsticks
2 tbsp tomato puree
¼ tsp mild chilli powder, or kashmiri chilli powder
1 tsp ground turmeric
2 tsp coriander powder
1 heaped tbsp greek yoghurt
300g butternut squash flesh, cubed
300g button mushrooms, trimmed and sliced
400ml vegetable stock, or water
Salt, to taste
2 tbsp chopped coriander, to garnish

For the rice
200g basmati rice
2 bay leaves
4 green cardamom pods
A pinch of salt

For the biryani
2 tbsp melted ghee
1 pinch saffron threads, steeped in warm water
1¼cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut into matchsticks
3 tbsp finely chopped fresh mint leaves
1 tsp ground cardamom powder
1 tsp garam masala
Raita and salad, as accompaniments

First make the gravy. Melt the clarified butter in a sizable, heavy-based saucepan on a moderate flame, add the cumin, bay and clove spices, and sauté for a few seconds. Stir in the sliced onion and sauté, frequently turning, for about half an hour, until softened. When the onions start to brown, transfer half of them to a plate and reserve (you'll use them later during the assembly).

Introduce the fresh chilies and ginger strips to the onions in pan, fry for a minute, then stir in the tomato puree, chilli powder, turmeric powder and coriander, and sauté for a short while. Reduce to a low heat, stir in the yogurt and cook for two minutes.

Add the squash and mushroom halves, toss to cover in the spice mixture, then cook for three minutes. Add the liquid, and season to taste. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat, cover and cook gently for 18-20 minutes, stirring once halfway to ensure nothing's stuck to the bottom of the pot. Garnish with coriander, then remove from the heat.

Preheat the oven to 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6. Wash the rice, then place it in a saucepan with a litre of water and the bay, cardamom pods and seasoning. Bring to a boil, simmer for around ten minutes, until three-quarters cooked, then drain.

For assembling the biryani, put a tablespoon of warmed ghee in a casserole pot for which you have a secure cover. Ladle in one portion the vegetable curry, then top that with some the rice. Sprinkle half the saffron water, ginger strips, mint leaves, ground cardamom and garam masala, then add the reserved fried onions. Layer with the rest of curry mixture, then arrange the remaining grains. Finish with the rest of clarified butter, saffron liquid, ginger, mint, cardamom powder and garam masala.

Cover with parchment, cover with the lid, then cook on the middle shelf of the oven for about fifteen minutes, so the aromas infuse the rice. Take out of the heat, allow to stand, keeping covered, for 10 minutes, then remove the lid and present with raita and salad.

Rajasthani Achari Kaddu (Pumpkin with Spice Blend Stir-Fry)

The Indian word "achari" describes seasoning a preparation using preserving spices, and the combination includes mustard seeds, fennel seeds, fenugreek seeds, cumin seeds, asafoetida and kalonji, but they're not used only in preserved foods. The blend also features in various types of spiced dishes and sautéed preparations, such as this one.

Preparation 10 min
Cooking 30 min
Yields 4

1 tsp black mustard seeds
½ tsp fenugreek seeds
1 tsp fennel seeds
4 tbsp vegetable oil
1 pinch asafoetida
5cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
750g squash flesh, or use pumpkin, cut into bite-sized pieces
1 tsp mild chilli powder
½ tsp ground turmeric
Salt, as needed
1 tbsp jaggery, or substitute with brown sugar
2 tsp dried mango powder

Place the mustard, fenugreek seeds and fennel seeds in a mortar, roughly grind, then reserve. Heat the oil in a spacious skillet or Indian wok on a medium heat. Introduce the crushed spices and the asafoetida, and sauté, stirring, for a brief moment. Add the ginger, fry for a minute, then add the pumpkin pieces, chili powder and turmeric, and fry, tossing, for five minutes more.

Add 50ml water to the pot, salt with salt to taste and heat until bubbling. Cover, reduce the heat, and leave to cook for about twenty minutes, stirring once halfway. Add the palm sugar, breaking up chunks a little, then incorporate the dried mango, stir well and serve warm with chapatis or naan.